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Web Format Images
Assembly Sequence
Screen Images
Large images for multi-sheet .pdf prints
foamBoard model

Back Frame, multi-sheet tile images for printing
12_partNumbers0001.pdf Back
12_partNumbers0002.pdf Back

Front Frame, multi-sheet tile images for printing
12_partNumbers0003.pdf Front
12_partNumbers0004.pdf Front

Left Frame, multi-sheet tile images for printing
12_partNumbers0005.pdf Left
12_partNumbers0006.pdf Left

Right Frame, multi-sheet tile images for printing
12_partNumbers0007.pdf Right
12_partNumbers0008.pdf Right

Small Front Frame, multi-sheet tile images for printing

Attic Survey, multi-sheet tile images for printing




  1. INSTALL SECOND LAYER ON FRONT PLATE: Existing front extension 2"x6" plate is only single thickness and needs to be doubled. Use existing 2"x6" lumber stored inside.

    Window frames have gap under rafter for fit-up. Leave open so ridge beam load transfers to window headers. Fill gap later from inside with block and bracket. Use screws on bracket so it can be removed to adjust block if needed.

    Beware of ORIENTED STRAND BOARD. It off-gasses formaldehyde. Look for metal rafters or I-beams that do not use OSB web material. Consider painting OSB with sealer.

    Think about ridge vent and how to keep heat inside without insulation or sheetrock on the ceiling. Maybe block it with insulation.

    Valley overlap shows 16 inch wide ledger boards 1 1/2" thick. Make from 2x4 rails at load bearing points. Leave space between rails. Think about this.

    5/32" pilot drill for 1/4" Fastenmaster framing screws. Manufacturer claims pilot holes are not required but torque without pilot hole is too much. Pre-drill all screws.
    FASTENMASTER proprietary 8 point spider bit for flat head screws.
    5/16" hex head socket driver for framing screws.
    Snappy 1/2" counter-bore with 3/16" pilot drill for wall studs.
    Angle driver for screws inside stud bays.
    3/32" pilot drill for bracket nails and screws. Use an 8 penny common finish nail as a drill bit. It has a 3/32" diameter.
    1/4" socket and 1/4" box wrench for bracket screws.

    Small: Anderson TW21032, RO: 3'-0 1/8” x 3'-4 7/8”
    Large: Anderson TW210410, RO: 3'-0 1/8” x 5'-0 7/8”
    Use Brick Moulding around upper front window to maximize distance between window trim and roofing.

  4. LAYOUT: Front and Back pitch is: (7 13/16") / 12"
    Right and Left pitch is: (8 7/16") / 12"

  5. LAYOUT: Check dimensions carefully while building. I-beam rafter size used in model is 11 7/8" x 1 3/4". Actual dimensions may be different. If a stud is too short, add washers at the top were they can be held by a framing screw.

  6. LAYOUT: Make a long plywood ruler. Attach it to the wall and use it to measure left, right, and small front gable frames. Left and right ridge beams are independent. They do not meet at the center of the building. Front to back ridge is a single line. It does match.

  7. LAYOUT: Follow model rafter spacing exactly so center chimney pipe and vent pipe land in the middle of a bay. Start the chimney pipe in the basement bay above step 5 counting up from basement floor. This is the bay with two wires that go up to a wall outlet in small room. Use a plumb bob to locate chimney pipe midway between ridge beam and basement beam. Make a box to hold the bottom end of the pipe and mount the box on the floor in the small room next to the stairs.

  8. LAYOUT: Front foundation extends 24" out from main section. Large front gable frame overhangs door 10", or 10 1/2" including sheathing on frame. See drawings above front door. Large front gable frame is setback 14" from small gable frame. 10" + 14" = 24" = foundation notch.

  9. LAYOUT: Models for right, left, and small front peaks include existing first floor top plate.

  10. LAYOUT: Bottom of window header is attached with two 8" screws on each end.  2x4 on top of header is attached with an 8" screw on each end. Use fender washers to reduce stress on 2x4.  2x4 on bottom of window rough opening is attached with an 8" screw on each end.

    Glue a 1 1/2 x 3/8 wood strip to outside header piece to mostly fill the gap between the two header pieces. Locate strip 3/8" in from bottom edge to leave a nominal 1/2" wide x 3/8" deep groove on the bottom of each header between the two pieces. Fill groove with adhesive to join the two header pieces.

  11. LAYOUT: For new joints, to compensate for warp, clamp one stud at a time into position, install screw, then remove screw. To assemble a section, drive screws through existing holes in first piece until threaded section protrudes fully on other side, align screw point with exiting hole in second piece, then tighten screws a little at a time in a torquing pattern to pull boards into location.

  12. LAYOUT: Do not use toe-nails. Use metal angle brackets or framing screws. Pre-drill pilot holes for all fasteners. See special tools above.

  13. BACK FRAME: Minimize cuts into existing back roof. Make pedestals. Use 9.5" long, triple 2x4s to make short adapter posts between existing top plate and back wall. Counter-bore hole in middle section so a 10" framing screw can be used to attach it to existing double plate.

    Working length of screw is 10". Need 3.1875" engagement (measured basement double plate). So, 10 - 3.1875 - .25" protrusion = 6.5625 drilled length. 9.5 - 6.5625 = 2.9375 = 2 15/16" counterbore. Root diameter of screw is 3/16".

    Pre-drill pilot hole through post center, then locate post next to existing ceiling joist on plate. Drill 5/32" location hole in plate. If long 5/32" drill not available, use long 1/8" drill to locate screw hole in plate. Screws work well with a 5/32" pilot hole.

  14. BACK FRAME: Make back plate extension as flat and level as possible. If frame sections don't fit exactly, use metal shims to fill gaps. Cut hurricane ties as needed to make shims.

  15. BACK FRAME: Stacking section above window will require some fit-up space. Put temporary shims under wall sections next to window frame. Attach side wall sections with screws so they can be moved up and down a half inch to provide space to assemble the window header. Remove the shims after assembly and tighten the screws to pull parts into place.

  16. ALIGNMENT PINS: Warp makes pre-drilled holes hard to align. Use loose fitting 6 inch long pins (or maybe nails) to align pieces first, then remove pins one at a time and replace with screws.

  17. BACK FRAME: Seal back roof joints with plywood and rubber membrane. Cut slot in existing front peak for new wall. Seal slot with blue tarp or house wrap stapled to front and back of new wall sheathing and use nailing strips to hold tarp to roof.

  18. BACK FRAME: Increase thickness of top 2x4s with 3/4" blocks between studs so roof sheathing nails don't break through.

  19. FRONT FRAME: Do not use a rim joist above front door. Let new joists overhang all the way out to make full contact under upper front wall. Install wood blocking above existing 2x6 wall. Make blocking from short sections of 2x6 cut to fit, two per bay. Install remaining interior second floor joists after new roof is in place. Laminate additional width to existing attic joists using truss plates and glue.

    Use screws to attach new joists to existing joists. Remove screws to adjust front overhang if necessary.

  20. LARGE FRONT FRAME: Install a 3/4" thick, 3 1/2" x 10" wide piece of plywood sub-flooring on top of the floor joists above front door. See model. Attach frame tops to underside of I-beam rafters before lifting rafters. Center I-beam on top of wall frame. Use 2x4 hemFir web spacers to provide nailing surface for sheathing and trim. Study roof notch above front door before building. Note flashing under overhang and need for nailing block to hold short piece of trim.

  21. LARGE FRONT, LEFT, AND RIGHT FRAME: Attach 2x4 frame top to underside of I-beam before lifting. Center the I-beam on the 2x4 so the I-beam web is 1-1/2" away from the outside of the frame and a hemFir 2x4 can be used as a nailing spacer for sheathing. Pre-drill beveled end of stud with 5/32 bit and counter-bore bottom end so 6" screw will extend about 1/4" through frame and into I-beam. Insert a 5/32" steel rod from the top as a drill-stop for the counter-bore. Lift I-beam, then locate top of each stud under I-beam and use alignment hole in stud to pre-drill 5/32" pilot hole into frame top. Insert 6" screw into counter-bored hole from underside. Clamp a temporary plywood gusset plate or board to each side of stud to make a fork to hold top of stud on location while the screw is being drilled. Or if it's too hard to reach top of stud, attach a single gusset plate to the inside of the stud, and nail from inside. Use angle brackets with screws provided by manufacturer to hold bottom of new studs to existing plate.

  22. LEFT AND RIGHT FRAME: Exact width of existing left and right side plate is unknown. For right side, install front corner on-location and use fit-up space in back corner above kitchen as needed. For left side, center frame front to back. Lift left and right end rafters up into place as a pair. Use plywood to keep rafters from falling off edge at hinge point while lifting. Join I-beam peak with plywood, nuts, and bolts. Leave bolts loose so joint can flex to fit. Put an eye bolt at peak to hold lifting pole.

  23. LEFT FRAME: Even out spacing for left window STUDS 202 and 214 next to when assembling. They are pre-cut to fit mid-way between existing studs. Shorten 1" or 2" as space permits.

  24. SMALL FRONT FRAME: Exact width of small front gable plate is unknown. Set first corner stud on right side. Align small front gable with plywood roof sheathing plate connected to large right front rafter. Let left side double stud land where it may. Notch double stud if it hits existing floor joist or add another piece if it hangs over the edge. Preserve theoretical gable width so it ends up symmetric. Do not cut existing ceiling joist.

  25. SMALL FRONT FRAME: Increase thickness of top 2x4s so roof sheathing nails don't break through. Fit studs in place. Pre-drill beveled end of each stud with 5/32" bit. Stud screws go up through bevel into top 2x4.

  26. SMALL FRONT FRAME: Attach small front left gable roof-line 2x4 on top of large front gable wall sheathing. Clamp 2x4 on location and attach from outside with a minimum number of temporary screws through the 2x4 and into the plywood. Don't try to locate the studs and nail from the outside. Nails will miss or split the studs. Then go inside, and fasten the 2x4 with 1 5/8" screws through the plywood from the back side. Go back outside and remove the temporary screws.

  27. PLYWOOD SHEATHING: Window headers are hollow and will split if face nailed. Be careful when nailing. Glue a reinforcement strip in the center void.

  28. PLYWOOD SHEATHING: Studs are dry and hard. Expect to pre-drill nails.

  29. PLYWOOD SHEATHING: Front roof notch, and front door roof intersection: Cover with metal siding material. Do not use any material in these two locations that has to be painted. Use drip cap flashing above window top.

  30. FLASHING: Install flashing on top of sheathing before trim, siding, and shingles are installed. Leave a gap between shingles and trim near places where trim intersects roofing material.

    Jack Rafters: 1 3/4" x 11 7/8", I-Beam
    Common Rafters: 1 3/4" x 11 7/8", I-Beam
    Ridge beam: 2 5/16" x 9 1/2", I-Beam with laminated rafter support bevel.
    Valley Ledgers: Make from 2x4s spaced to width shown in model. Two 2x4s per piece with gap between to get necessary width. Try to get long Timber Strand 2x4s.

  32. RIDGE: Ridge I-beam web width is 9.5 - 2(1.375) = 6.75". I-beam web stiffeners require 1/8" gap between stiffener and flange on both ends of stiffener so right side I-beam stiffener maximum width is 6.75 - 2(.125) = 6.5".

  33. RIDGE: Connect left and right ridge beams at center junction with 8" screws and hangers. Drill pilot hole from end grain contact point out to screw entrance point so screws are centered in contact area.

  34. RIDGE: Install collar ties between joist pairs. Connect collar ties with boards parallel to ridge to form large triangular beam along peak.

  35. RAFTERS: 1 3/4" I-beam flange depth: (1.75-.375)/2 = .6875" = 11/16".

  36. END RAFTERS: Attach 1 1/2" thick 2x4 spacers to exterior side of gable I-rafters at nailing locations for sheathing and trim before lifting. Attach Front, Left, and Right end rafters in middle of wall frame so a 1 1/2" thick spacer on the I-beam web ends up flush with outside of frame.

  37. Rafter Lift Assembly: Left side front and back rafter lift supports are three layers thick and joined by two screws at the bottom. They will not pull together by tightening the screws. They must be clamped before screws are inserted. Align outside surfaces flush. Clamp and insert one screw through first two pieces so point protrudes slightly from second piece. Insert second screw through third piece with point protruding slightly from inside surface of third piece. Then clamp together under rafter and tighten both screws.

  38. RAFTERS: Rafter assembly is all manufactured lumber. Do not notch I-beam flanges. Nail through flange into ridge. Add 3/4" shim strip and 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" bevel strip to top of ridge beam to support rafter flanges on upper end. Bevel strip can be laminated from 3/4" boards. Adjust to fit back peak first, so top of rafters matches top of back frame. Other peaks will self adjust. Laminate 2 5/16" wide I-beam with 1/2" plywood on each side if needed. Solid ridge beams are too heavy.

  39. RAFTERS: Use 4 1/2" framing screws or maybe carriage bolts to attach legs to rafters. Pre-drill holes in legs. Grind corners off top of middle piece so contact surface is oval and joint can roll into place.

  40. RAFTERS: Cut plywood templates for left side common rafter tails. Use templates for blocking on both sides of I-beams. Attach templates after rafters are in place, then trim I-beams to fit with hand saw.

  41. RAFTERS: Put wiring knock-out holes in I-beam web on bottom side of rafter closer to ceiling not roof.

  42. RAFTERS: Check proper method for attaching roof plywood to I-beam rafter flanges. 8p nails are too long. Maybe shorter ring nails that will not break through bottom side of rafter flange.

  43. RAFTERS: Use short pieces of rafter I-beam for blocking between rafter tops as shown in model to increase ridge stiffness. Notch blocking web on one end about 2" deep by full width for fit-up and to permit air flow up into ridge vent. Do not notch flange. Nail bottom flange to ridge beam bevel and position top flange perpendicular to rafter so roof sheathing can be nailed into top flange. Do not toe nail flange to flange.

  44. RAFTERS: METAL CROSS BRACING. Run lines of cross bracing parallel to ridge about one third down from peak.

  45. RAFTERS: Use double metal 2x4s for collar ties. Place them back to back and slide to necessary length. Use two long metal 2x4 rails to join collar ties parallel to ridge to create triangular box beams from the collar ties and ridge.

  46. ELECTRICAL SERVICE WIRE: Right and left side studs conflict with existing attic end rafters. The right rafters could be cut to make room for the new studs but the electrical service wire is too close on the left side. Put a temporary post on corner of new extension next to trim board and spaced away from the wall by 3 inches so there is space behind post.

    The service wire is not exactly in the way. It's just too close to the work space and where the saw would cut, so its not safe to work with the electricity on.

  47. TRIM: Space trim 2" away from sheathing with two strips of 1" plastic decking material. Allow siding to slide about 2" under a 3/4" x 5 1/2" PVC trim board. Align decking strips with top edge of rafter. Cantilever roof plywood over decking and nail cantilevered plywood into decking strips. Raise trim to cover edge of 1/2" plywood roof sheathing. Do not use drip edge to cover plywood end grain. Cover plywood edge with the trim board. Then put roofing drip edge on top of trim. Trim material must not require paint. Decking strip max width = (5.5 - .125)/2 = 2.6875 Trim siding overlap = 5.5 - .5 - 2.6875 = 2.3125".

  48. ROOFING:

    1. Use 30# tar paper under shingles. Synthetic underlayment is water impermeable and does not allow moisture to dry from the outside. This can cause sheathing to rot when water from humid air condenses on the bottom side of the underlayment.

    2. Don't drive nail heads through shingles because nail gun was set incorrectly.

    3. Don't crack ridge cap because it was too cold to bend. Find a way to bend shingles on a cold day without creating a fire hazard. Think about using steam from a steam cleaner with a form on the ground that matches roof pitch. Center peak intersection will be slightly irregular because roof pitches are not all the same. Use small pieces of shingle and roof cement to build up a tight fitting multi-layer cap over ridge intersection. Inspect and verify long term water seal with no hollow soft spots before scaffolding is removed. Consider a metal ridge cap that's used for metal roofing material.

    4. Ridge cap ends: Make first ridge cap shingle a double layer. Use starter piece cut to match overlap pattern. See manufacturer's instructions which are likely to say 7" starter with roofing cement for wind protection. Use roof cement to glue the second layer of the first and last ridge cap piece. Use two face nails on last ridge cap piece. Cover exposed nail heads with roof cement and shingle sand collected from inside of bundle package.

    5. Shingle overhang beyond metal drip edge should be 1/2 inch according to instructions on CertainTeed bundle wrapping when shed was built.

    6. Install roofing brackets correctly:

      a. Bump on bottom of roofing bracket can cut through hot shingle. Use double scrap layer under bracket for protection.

      b. Do not install roofing bracket under shingles, and then break a shingle when removing bracket.

      b.i. Reasonable Bracket Method: Put screws straight through top surface of shingle, but it's hard to find out exactly where rafter is, and don't want multiple test holes.

      b.ii. To locate rafter, put a #6 x 3/4" round head screw with a fender washer in the plywood to make a bump at the rafter center, then press roofing underlayment or shingle onto screw head to mark location on underside. Remove small locater screw, then make a hole in the shingle at the marked location. Attach roofing bracket through hole at rafter center with sufficiently strong screw and washer.

      b.iii. When finished, fill screw hole with #6 x 1" stainless flathead screw and cover with tar and shingle sand from bundle wrapper.

    7. Use 5/8" thick ridge vent all the way out to end of ridge.

    8. Drip edge: Use 3/4" stainless flashing nails. Install starting at bottom of roof so overlap from above will keep water out. Plan ahead so top piece is as long as possible. Short piece of drip edge at peak looks terrible.

    9. Use 3" overlap for rake edge underlayment shingles.

    10. Do not overlap horizontal starter strip under first row.

    11. Do not nail step flashing to wall. Nail to roof only. This will allow flashing to be pulled out from under siding if it needs to be replaced.

  49. SIDING: Install panel siding on large front, back, left, and right gables. Small front gable is all shingles. Install horizontal drip edge at same height as top plate on existing house so bottom line of end gable siding matches bottom line of large front gable.

  50. SIDING: Use 4' x 8' x 3/16" thick wood siding panels. Layer sheets to cover horizontal seams. Top triangle is 3 layers thick, window sides and bottom are two layers thick, and outboard side triangles are one layer thick. Underlayers can be smaller pieces with air ventilation gaps. Use aluminum drip edge above windows. Leave 1/8" gap to siding above drip edge. Caulk ends of drip edge to prevent water from running under siding along side of windows.

  51. Heating Plan: Old chimney is hollow below ground and partly filled with sand. It can fill with water during an extended storm. Do not cut furnace exhaust through basement wall. Water will come in. Send vent pipe through roof. Put furnace on blocks. Allow for 10" deep flood in basement.


    1. Specify goals with cost to complete quantified for each step before work begins. Consider labor by the hour, not to exceed a specified amount for a pre-determined goal.

    2. Start and finish dates shall be established.

    3. Exit quality criteria shall be both design plan and building code. Specify what will happen if builder does not follow plan configuration.

    4. Builder shall provide proof-of-insurance with liability limits, or self-insure. Builder shall provide statement to release owner from liability under all circumstances.

    5. Builder shall provide protection from weather damage if delay occurs. Is builder bonded? What happens if builder initiates dispute or does not meet completion requirements and leaves job undone and exposed to weather damage?